I have no idea how this became the unwritten rule of dinner in our house, but when one of us discovers a new recipe, cooks it for the family, and it’s a success, it is the cook’s responsibility to prepare that dinner from that point forward. Forever. We have probably eaten Chicken Cutlets with Soy-Lime Sauce from Bittman’s How to Cook Everything (page 391) two dozen times since 1998, and Andy, who was the first to recognize its potential for brilliance, has prepared it every one of those times. Likewise, Andy has never made “my” maque choux, lettuce hand rolls, or minestrone. It has nothing to do with skills or technique. A meal breaks down party lines purely by provenance…which can come in handy. Last week, when I answered “those Gourmet Burritos” to Andy’s question “What should we have for dinner?” it was as much out of laziness as it was out of a craving for an easy vegetarian dinner. Because the recipe for “those Gourmet burritos” (from the Gourmet Today cookbook) belongs to him.